|
|
February 26, 1999/10 Adar 5759, Vol. 51, No. 22
Beyond hamantashen
Trendy Purim foods range from chocolate to challah pudding
LINDA MOREL
Jewish Telegraphic Agency
People go for themes these days," says a mother from Manhattan's Upper West Side, explaining how the custom of giving gifts at Purim has escalated since her childhood in the 1950s.
Back then, people followed tradition: Family members in every household gave two foods to two people. Called portions, these foods were often homemade, and hamantashen (triangular Purim pastries) were king.
Today people hire companies to deliver Purim portions with pizzazz. Last year, this Manhattan mom received a breakfast basket from friends that contained bagels, cream cheese, cocoa, muffins and mini-cereal boxes. Another couple selected a chocolate theme, sending a tin full of everything: chocolate syrup, cake, cookies, pudding and candy bars.
Although these upscale offerings are creative, they are a quantum leap from Mordecai's intention after the Jews of Persia defeated Haman. Overjoyed that they had prevailed over Haman's wicked plot to annihilate them, Mordecai declared Purim to be a time to give charity to the poor and shalach manot (portions of edible presents) to loved ones.
Traditionally, people have exchanged a fruit and a baked good, presented on trays. In an attempt to preserve the spirit of the holiday, the Manhattan mom wants her children to participate in a meaningful shalach manot. Together they bake hamantashen, various cookies and small cakes. They place pastries in Purim boxes, which can be purchased at Judaica stores or synagogue gift shops. Bringing boxes to two of their friends, each child also gives them to grandparents and family friends.
While the personal gesture is waning in America, in other countries, people bake sweets by the dozen at Purim, turning it into a virtual cookie exchange. Although the holiday's signature dish, hamantashen, remains popular, people throughout the world also stuff baskets with slices of cake and favorite cookies.
Typical of Jewish culinary history, Purim baking has been influenced by local cuisine, and every country has its own customs. Russian Jews make streudels and sugar cookies. In Morocco, people exchange small breads filled with hard-boiled eggs. In Prague, they bake huge challah (egg bread) loaves with oversized braids, symbolizing the rope used to hang Haman.
Usually celebrated on the 14th day of the Hebrew month of Adar, Purim is observed the next day by people living in cities that were surrounded by walls in ancient times. Thus Israelis in Tel Aviv should observe Purim on a different day than people in Jerusalem.
But the holiday is such an event in Israel that many people celebrate on both days. Shalach manot is taken seriously, and baking begins several weeks in advance. Israelis prepare everything from peanut butter cookies to favorite Hanukkah and Rosh Hashana sweets.
In America, Jews often exchange hamantashen, honey cake and our country's favorite treat - chocolate chip cookies. Although many Americans purchase pastries in bakeries, the recipes here take little time and no expertise. With help, children can participate too.
Inspired by English bread pudding, challah pudding squares are layered with creamy custard and golden raisins. This recipe serves a practical purpose, consuming leftover challah floating in the freezer.
As the last holiday before Passover, Purim should be a baking bonanza that dwindles a family's supply of flour, a time to give portions of love and cookies.
Linda Morel writes from New York City.
|
