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July 25, 2003/Tamuz 25 5763, Vol. 55, No. 48
Scottsdale couple treks 500 miles in Spain
JESSICA BARBER
Staff Writer
Maureen and Robert Chernick pose with two friends during their 500-mile pilgrimage across northern Spain. Maureen Chernick is right, back. Robert Chernick is in front.
Photo courtesy of Maureen and Robert Chernick
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In the last 10 years, Maureen and Robert Chernick have fed polar bears in Canada, observed gorillas in Zaire and hiked the mountains of Nepal. But the Scottsdale couple - who are in their mid-60s - didn't stop there. They recently returned from a month-long, 500-mile pilgrimage through the mountains of northern Spain, a trek they took in support of U.S. and British armed forces and their families.
The couple hiked west on the Camino de Santiago from Roncesvalles to Santiago de Compostela, spanning almost the entire length of northern Spain. Travelers seeking religious, political or personal enhancement have braved the steep, mountainous passage since the 12th century, adorned with seashells on their necks or backpacks to distinguish them as "pilgrims."
Pilgrims collect "passports" at the beginning of their trek and are given stamps at villages along the way. When travelers reach Santiago de Compostela, they receive a certificate for completing the journey.
The Chernicks hiked from mid-May to mid-June, passing through varying landscapes and countryside.
"In the first stage, you are starting off just at the end of the Pyrenees, coming down toward Pamplona," says Robert Chernick. "It's sort of like foothills to the mountains. Then you get to an area not unlike prairies that had hundreds of miles of barley, oats, wheat and poppies. Next, you hit two major mountain ranges, and the climb is very steep."
The couple hiked an average of 20 kilometers (about 12 miles) each day, and spent their first nights in refugios (hostels) provided to pilgrims by the Spanish government.
"The (refugios) are very, very primitive," says Maureen Chernick. "The first night we were in an old monastery with 120 bunks in one room. There was terrible snoring and bodily noises."
"I decided after four or five of them that the trip wasn't about suffering at night," adds Robert Chernick. "You might have 50 or 60 people in one room with two showers and two bathrooms. You need a decent night's sleep because sooner or later, it's going to catch up with you."
The couple spent the remainder of the trip in one-star hotels with private rooms and bathrooms.
Along the way, the couple heard of a synagogue located in Astorga and made a short side trip to visit.
"Turns out there wasn't (a synagogue there)," says Robert Chernick. "But there is a field where it used to be, where it was destroyed. Now, there is a huge rose garden (to commemorate the location) at the bottom of the foothills of a major moun-tain."
In addition to the sights, the couple also enjoyed the relationships they built with fellow pilgrims along the way.
"The camaraderie you have with the other pilgrims you pass is amazing," recalls Maureen Chernick. "You may not see someone for days, but when you meet up again at a refugio, it's like seeing your family."
The Chernicks faced aches and pains associated with the demanding physical hike.
"At 30, if you have a physical problem, you can recover," says Robert Chernick. "I didn't know how quickly the stamina would come back (if we had a problem)."
"I had terrible knee problems and we got very achy," adds Maureen Chernick. "But we never thought we would quit."
Although the Chernicks were somewhat concerned about their physical abilities, they felt they were better mentally prepared for the journey than others.
"There is that maturity," says Robert Chernick. "You can kind of hunker down. There was never a time we thought we wouldn't make it."
In fact, the couple trained for three months before departing for Spain.
"We would walk up the McDowell Mountains with 20 pounds of rocks in our knapsacks," says Maureen Chernick. "Then we'd walk eight to 10 miles on flat ground and on our day off, we would bike 25 miles."
"When you do get pain, you're not trudging along feeling that," says Robert Chernick. "You are really enjoying (the walk). The vistas were marvelous. The camaraderie was excellent. We sang every song known to man."
When the journey was drawing to a close, the Chernicks experienced mixed emotions.
"We thought we were going to walk in with blazing colors," says Maureen Chernick.
"As we got closer to the end though," says Robert Chernick, "the focus changed. Instead of talking about the challenges we'd face tomorrow, we started talking about the experiences we already had. Looking forward included disengaging ... from each other and the journey. There is a great feeling of accomplishment, but there is a depression because it's over."
Both Chernicks would recommend the trip to others, but do offer some advice: watch the weather, limit your weight (in backpacks), take care of your feet and bring sunscreen.
Robert Chernick is a CPA and financial consultant. Maureen Chernick is a producer, actress and seamstress. The couple has been married for 20 years and has eight children and 10 grandchildren between them.
Contact the writer at jessica_barber@jewishaz.com.
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