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August 23, 2002/Elul 15 5762, Vol. 54, No. 49
Books explore diversity of holiday cuisine
ALISA SLOAN
Special Sections Editor
Wander into a bookstore or do a search for "cookery, Jewish" on the Web and you will find yourself inundated with titles.
Ranging from Moroccan cuisine to Russian favorites, from vegetarian to kosher, there is certainly something for everyone. The question is - what is for you?
Adding unfamiliar recipes to an established repertoire involves some risk, especially around the holidays.
For those without much interest in cooking, selecting a new cookbook for a special occasion - such as a High Holiday dinner - can be downright daunting. There may be eight permutations of the same dish in as many cookbooks, and not many of us have time to contemplate the nuances of varying the ingredients in chicken soup.
To make the selection process easier, we've rounded up several titles that explore the richly diverse traditions of Jewish cuisine. All contain recipes ideal for High Holiday meals.
"The Jewish Heritage Cookbook" by Marlena Spieler (Lorenz Books, $36 hardcover)
At first glance, it is the artwork that sets this large volume apart. Full-color photos - most depicting luscious-looking dishes - appear on every glossy page. When the eyes have had their fill, the book provides an abridged history of how Jewish food has developed its own identity as a result of the Diaspora. Says Spieler, "The flavor of remembrance seasons all our meals." Also included are detailed ingredient descriptions and how-tos for everything from haminados eggs to strudel. The 150 recipes draw on Jewish culinary traditions and influences from all over the globe. Some ingredients may seem exotic, but the techniques are simple and the flavors practically jump off the page.
"The Scent of Orange Blossoms: Sephardic Cuisine from Morocco" by Kitty Morse and Danielle Mamane (Ten Speed Press, $24.95 hardcover)
This standout resource introduces readers to the uniquely spiced flavors of Jewish Morocco. From orange blossom water to fava beans and toasted anise seeds, the recipes are as much treasured heirlooms as instructions. The authors preserved recipes that have been handed down in only an oral fashion since the Jewish inhabitants of Morocco were expelled from Spain. Intimate descriptions precede each recipe and afford a glimpse of family life, as well as a taste of what is served on holiday (and everyday) tables. A sampling: Tagine of Chicken with Eggplant, and Sweet Roasted Vegetables for Rosh Hashana; Turkey Couscous for Yom Kippur.
"A Fistful of Lentils" by Jennifer Felicia Abadi (Harvard Common Press, $24.95 hardcover)
Another in the "cookbook as tribute" genre, this mouth-watering volume combines cookery and family history in a labor of love. The author literally pieced together recipes handed down among the women in her Syrian-Jewish family to create this inclusive and varied collection. She conveys the deep meaning each bite of food held for those who cooked, and the pride they took in their dishes. Though each entry is rich in tradition, possible High Holiday recipes include Kibbeh Nabilseeyah and Kibbeh fil Seeniyah b'Lah'Meh (bulghur wheat dishes to which pomegranate seeds are added for the holidays) and Dja'jeh Burd'aan b'Teen (Orange Chicken with Golden Raisins and Figs).
"New Jewish Cuisine: Contemporary Kosher Cooking from Around the World" by Carole Sobell (Interlink Books, $26.95 hardcover)
Sobell calls upon her 20 years of kosher catering experience to produce this volume of dairy-free dishes that can be served with meat or fish meals. Sobell's global scope touches on everything from sushi to bruschetta to Thai chicken satay. Dishes ideal for the High Holidays include Lokshen Kugel, Dressed Salmon with Cucumber and Tzimmes with Dumplings. The recipes are elegant yet simple - ideal for entertaining - and Sobell offers tips about choosing ingredients and elements of style.
"The 2nd Ave Deli Cookbook" by Sharon Lebewohl and Rena Bulkin (Villard Books, $24.95 hardcover)
The foreword indicates that this book is more than just a compendium of recipes - it's a tribute to a man's life. That man was the well-loved Abe Lebewohl, proprietor of the famous Second Avenue Deli. Interspersed with his recipes, the book's authors share snippets of Lebewohl's colorful life through tales of his legendary generosity and the reminiscences of his friends. Among the traditional Jewish deli-style dishes, standouts for High Holiday meals include Carrot Pudding (a sweet side dish favored by Iranian Jews), Roast Chicken with Challah-Apple Stuffing, Chopped Liver and Cold Cherry Soup.
"Adventures in Jewish Cooking" by Jeffrey Nathan (Clarkson Potter, $32.50 hardcover)
This is the first cookbook for Nathan, kosher chef and host of the public television series "New Jewish Cuisine," seen on PBS stations nationwide. He combines new twists on Jewish cuisine with traditional favorites in this anthology of his recipes, due out in September. From suggested holiday menus to exciting salads (which he calls "edible symphonies"), Nathan's love of kosher cooking is evident on every page. Says Nathan in the introduction, "The goal of this book is to awaken American cooks to the great, big, wide and wonderful world of Jewish cooking." That he does, with recipes for the holidays such as Smoked Salmon Cheesecake, Smoked Whitefish Pinwheels and Wild Mushroom Kugel.
This dish is eaten by Moroccan Jews at Rosh Hashana. Recipe from "The Jewish Heritage Cookbook" by Marlena Spieler
Moroccan Lamb with Honey and Prunes (meat)
Serves 6
- Generous 1/2 cup pitted prunes
- 1 1/2 cups hot tea
- 2 1/4 pound stewing or braising lamb such as shoulder, cut into chunky portions
- 1 onion, chopped
- 5-6 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
- 1/2 tsp. ground ginger
- 1/2 tsp. curry powder
- Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
- 2 tsp. ground cinnamon
- 1/4 tsp. saffron threads
- 2 Tbsp. hot water
- 5-9 Tbsp. honey, to taste
- 1 cup beef or lamb stock
- 1 cup blanched almonds, toasted
- 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro leaves
- 3 hard-boiled eggs, cut into wedges
- Salt and ground black pepper
- Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Put the prunes in a bowl, pour over the tea and cover. Leave to soak and plump up.
- Meanwhile, put the lamb, chopped onion, parsley, ginger, curry powder, nutmeg, cinnamon, salt and a large pinch of ground pepper in a roasting pan. Cover and cook in the oven for about 2 hours, or until the meat is tender.
- Drain the prunes; add their liquid to the lamb. Combine the saffron and hot water and add to the pan with the honey and stock. Bake, uncovered, for 30 minutes, turning the lamb occasionally.
- Add the prunes to the pan and stir gently to mix. Serve sprinkled with the toasted almonds and chopped cilantro, and topped with the wedges of hard-boiled egg.
Sephardic Jews serve this scented fruit salad on the second evening of Rosh Hashana. Recipe from "The Scent of Orange Blossoms" by Kitty Morse and Danielle Mamane
Pomegranate Seeds with Walnuts (pareve)
Serves 6
- 4 pomegranates
- 3 Tbsp. orange blossom water (can be purchased at Middle Eastern markets)
- 2 Tbsp. sugar (or more)
- 3 Tbsp. water
- 1/3 cup walnut pieces, toasted
- Fill a large bowl with water. Cut the pomegranate in half vertically. Hold the fruit under water and break it apart, separating the seeds from the skin and the white pith. The seeds will sink and the pith will float to the surface. Transfer the seeds to a colander. Rinse and drain, removing any bits of skin and pith.
- In a bowl, combine the pomegranate seeds, orange blossom water, sugar and water. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours. Taste and adjust the sugar if necessary. Add the walnuts just before serving in individual dessert bowls.
This sweet dish is appropriate for Rosh Hashana. Recipe from "The 2nd Ave Deli Cookbook" by Sharon Lebewohl and Rena Bulkin
Carrots with Honey, Fruit and Nuts (pareve)
- 1 1/2 pounds carrots, peeled and sliced into 1-inch sticks
- 2 Tbsp. butter or margarine
- 8 pitted prunes, chopped into 1/2-inch pieces
- 1/2 cup raisins
- 3/4 cup coarsely chopped pecans or walnuts
- 1/4 cup honey (if you grease your measuring cup with vegetable oil, the honey will slide right out)
- 1 tsp. finely grated lemon rind
- 1 Tbsp. sugar
- 1/2 tsp. salt
- Place carrots in a saucepan, cover with water, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes.
- While carrots are simmering, melt butter in a large skillet and sauté prunes, raisins and nuts on moderate heat for 2 minutes, stirring constantly.
- Drain carrots and return them to saucepan. Add fruit-nut mixture and all other ingredients, stir to thoroughly combine, and cook for 2 more minutes, stirring frequently. Serve hot.
This festive dish is elegant on Rosh Hashana. Recipe from "A Fistful of Lentils" by Jennifer Felicia Abadi
Riz m'Ajweh wa Zheeb (Rice with almonds, dates and golden raisins) (pareve)
Serves 6-8
Rice:
- 2 cups long-grain white rice
- 2 tsp. salt
- 4 cups cold water
- 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
Topping:
- 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
- 1 cup finely chopped yellow onions
- 1 cup sliced blanched almonds
- 1/2 cup golden raisins
- 1 cup pitted and coarsely chopped dates (12 large Medjool dates)
- Prepare the rice. Bring the rice, 1 tsp. salt and water to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat, uncovered. Reduce the heat to medium and continue to cook at a slow boil, uncovered, until all the water is absorbed and the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
- Remove the saucepan from the heat and pour into a colander or strainer. Rinse the boiled rice under cold running water to remove excess starch. Drain well and set aside while you wash and dry the rice pot to use again.
- Coat the bottom and sides of the washed rice pot with the oil. Return the rice to the pan, add the remaining salt and mix well. Simmer slowly over low heat for 20 minutes, uncovered.
- Meanwhile, prepare the topping. Heat the oil in a medium-size skillet over medium heat, add the onions and cook, stirring, until golden and soft, 3 to 4 minutes.
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