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December 22, 2000/Kislev 25, 5761, Vol. 53, No.13

Tour shows little reason to fear travel

ALAN HITSKY
Jewish Renaissance Media
At the first major intersection on the outskirts of Jerusalem, our tourist bus encountered a massive demonstration. Pedestrians lined both sides of the road, waving homemade banners and flags, and chanting slogans.

Another Palestinian protest? No, it was the prelude to a Sunday-night showdown between the Jerusalem and Haifa teams in the Israel professional soccer league.

The normalcy of the moment was a soothing reminder that our Israel government-sponsored tour had been arranged to demonstrate that the Palestinian intifada has not made the country a dangerous place for tourists.

The perception of danger has had a massive impact on the country's multi-billion-dollar-a-year tourist industry. Government officials estimate bookings have dropped at least 40 percent in the last two months; tourist industry sources say the loss may be as high as 70 percent.

Israeli officials and American Jewish leaders are adamant that a U.S. State Department warning against travel to Israel is misguided.

Amnon Lipkin-Shahak, minister of tourism and transportation, said the year 2000 was a record year for tourism to Israel, fueled by the expectation of a impending peace agreement between Israel and the Palestinians, and Millennium celebrations.

"In a matter of days" after the riots started in late September, "our numbers went down," said Lipkin-Shahak, and the continuing strife has cost 15,000 Israelis their jobs.

El Al Israel Airlines, the primary carrier of tourists to Israel, has also suffered, but it is not dropping rates. Instead, it is dropping flights, according to spokesman Nachman Kleiman.

What we saw in a week of hopping around the country that took us from Jerusalem and Tel Aviv to Haifa and Eilat was repeated scenes of normalcy. While the people we talked with were concerned about continuing national issues such as the future of the peace process, all stressed they had no physical fear of the Palestinian uprising and that visitors wouldn't either.



Jerusalem

Jerusalem, like all Israel, is experiencing a construction boom. New suburbs, new buildings are going up everywhere, and Israel's national "bird" - the construction crane - is ever-present.

People fill the sidewalks in west Jerusalem and vehicle traffic is heavy. What's missing is the tourists.

The streets of the Old City are quieter and the Western Wall plaza nearly empty, although Jewish worshippers continue to crowd near the ancient temple's stone wall.

The Jewish Quarter of the Old City was bustling with residents, but tourists were notably absent from the streets, the Cardo shopping area and other ancient attractions. Our group of journalists had the dining room of the King David Hotel nearly to ourselves.



Haifa

Haifa, proud of its relations with its Arab minority, is trying to become a tourist destination. The Baha'i gardens and shrine, dominating the Mt. Carmel slope overlooking the city, will celebrate its completion in May.

Mayor Amran Mitzna made a strong pitch for Jewish tourism to Israel.

"It is the densest locale of Jewish attractions in the world," he said. "Holy places, shopping, laying on the beach, famous places - they are all here."

Some of the journalists, staying in the Dan Carmel Hotel, were awakened by what sounded like gunfire. They remained skeptical until they heard the same sounds while touring the 19 terraces of the Baha'i gardens - it was the sounds of ships being unloaded in Haifa harbor.



Tel Aviv

Sherry (Domstein) Fox and her husband Michael have been in Tel Aviv for a month. Michael is on a six-month assignment in Israel for Nortel Communications.

The two Bethesda, Md., residents are polishing their two years of University of Michigan Hebrew classes - Michael at work and Sherry in an ulpan. They're having a wonderful time in Israel and find it safe.

"There are things happening 30 miles away, but there is nothing happening here," said Sherry.

Their view was reflected throughout Tel Aviv. The lobby of the Crowne Plaza Hotel on the beachfront was abuzz with activity. People were walking the streets, and the restaurants were busy.

Michael Fox attributed the difference to Tel Aviv's position as Israel's commercial capital. "It's not as reliant on tourism," he said.



Eilat

The Marine Park and Underwater Observatory is on the outskirts of Eilat, within a stone's throw of Taba, Egypt, and just minutes from Jordan and Saudi Arabia.

This little corner at the hot and rocky southern tip of Israel serves as the Florida of Europe. Just a 10-minute drive or 40-minute glass-bottomed boat ride from Eilat's palatial hotels, the Marine Park was expecting a healthy increase in business this year.

"The beginning of the year was so good," said Marine Park's Michal Levy. Instead, the park has experienced a 62 percent decline in foreign visitors and a 20 percent decline in Israeli visitors.

Rina Maor, local director for the tourism ministry, said Eilat averages four days of rain per year. Since it sprinkled during our boat ride from the Marine Park, and poured the next morning, the odds of it raining during your visit to Eilat were just cut in half.



For travel information, contact the Israel Government Tourist Office, 888-77-ISRAEL or www.goisrael.com

Alan Hitsky is associate editor of the Detroit Jewish News, a Jewish Renaissance Media publication.


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