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September 22, 2000/22 Elul 5760, Vol. 52, No.55
Different strokes for different faces
TAMI BICKLEY
Associate Editor

A female model does more than show off the clothes of the moment. Her overall appearance, from her hair to her face to the color of her nails, demonstrates the most up-to-date style.
So when it comes to makeup, people around the world look to these women each season as the leaders in what cosmetics to apply and how to apply them.
But sometimes what works on the runway won't work in real world, where not everyone has perfect skin, high cheekbones and full lips.
While women should take note of the latest looks in makeup, they should also keep in mind what will and will not work for their own faces.
"You can bring in some of the new looks, but just don't go with the full look of what you see in the magazines and on the runways," suggests Shifra Green, a Phoenix makeup artist and founder and owner of a makeup consultation company, Great Faces on the Go. "You have to make it work for you (depending on) who you are, how much money you have to spend (on makeup) and how much time you have to put it on."
Both last year and this year, women have sparkled all over the runways with body glitter, silver and gold eye shadows and lipstick. Although very much in style, Green cautions that the look is not for everyone.
"Older women should watch how much shimmer they put on," she says, "especially on the eyes, because if they have any puffiness or droopiness in the eyelids, (shimmery makeup) will attract attention to that."
The alternative, according to Rebecca Field, manager of About Face in Scottsdale, is matte makeup, which flatters older women and does not accentuate "crepiness."
Younger women, however, can choose from shimmery eye shadows, foundations and glossy lipsticks without having to worry about anything, other than looking too shimmery.
Color, though, has no age restrictions. A woman at any time in her life should stick to whatever hues suit her natural coloring best, explains Green.
The best way to determine what colors will bring out the best in oneself is to make an appointment with a professional, she adds. Makeup professionals will often "color type" their clients into one of four categories: spring, summer, winter or autumn. Once a women knows her "season," she can stick to wearing colors that fall into that season.
For example, when shopping for brown eye makeup, a woman who is considered to be either a spring or autumn - both known as warm colors - should opt for a brown with yellow or orange undertones. A woman who is a summer or winter - known as cool colors - should choose a brown with pink undertones, says Green.
"Look at a whole variety of colors," she advises. "If you hold them next to each other, you'll see that there are browns with pink tones, and browns with orange tones."
This fall and winter, popular colors for eyes, cheeks and lips are burgundy, wine, maroon, deep browns and bronze, say Field and Green. Gold is also a hot color, but Green warns that "gold is not going to be the best color for (summers or winters)."
Although gray and silver tones were all the rage last fall and winter, women should not toss their favorite silver-toned lipstick in the garbage.
"The things that worked for you last year, you can still wear. But you are going to want to update your look somewhat," Green says.
What women may want to throw out are bold colors such as shocking blues and purples that were in style two to three years ago, Green says. Another makeup faux pas, she points out, is not about color, but about application.
"A real visible eyeliner line ages people and makes them look very tired," she says. "If someone is standing a comfortable distance away from you, you shouldn't see a line of eyeliner. All you should see is open, alive eyes. It should blend.
"There is a lot of skill (to makeup application). People have to learn the skill, and the best way to do that is by making an appointment with a makeup artist. ... They can help you to take looks off the runway without going to the extreme."
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